How the EU looks after a decade of horrors

can match the absurd majesty of the Palais de Justice in Brussels. The courthouse complex was Europe’s biggest structure upon completion in 1883. Its seemingly random jumble of classical columns, piled haphazardly on top of each other, dwarf even St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. One atrium has a ceiling height of over 80 metres. politely describes this architectural confection as “unique”. Thus it was with pangs of regret that your newish columnist left the Belgian capital in 2012 after a three-year stint: much of the Palais had been wrapped in scaffolding the entire time. How exciting, as he returned this month after a decade away, to see the edifice in all its glory at last. Alas, the Palais is as concealed as ever. Political squabbling and dodgy brickwork mean the overhaul is now expected to take several more years to complete. The scaffolding has been up so long, it is itself in the process of being renovated.Across town from the Palais, another mastodon has been under perpetual maintenance since 2012. The , whose main institutions are based in Brussels, is itself something of a fixer-upper. When your columnist left, in the depths of the euro-zone crisis, doom-mongers wondered whether the edifice might be brought low by structural flaws at the heart of the single currency, its signature project. The grim mood was all-pervasive, and in contrast with Europe’s comfortable position in the wider world. Upon his return Charlemagne finds the opposite is true. Brussels is brimming with confidence, even as Europe’s prospects look more tenuous. What happened?