Europe’s tenth-largest cities: Catania, in Etna’s shadow

Our occasional series finds hopes for rebirth in what was once the Milan of the south


IN THE VASTCD street market that tumbles out of Piazza Stesicoro you can find amulets and antiques, pirated s, trousers, tuna and horsemeat. Immigrant tailors bend over sewing machines fixed to little tables so that people who buy clothes can get them altered on the spot. Half a young sheep dangles from a hook.Italy’s tenth-largest city pulsates with life, yet sits beneath a louring reminder of mortality: Mount Etna, which has been spewing fire, smoke and lava since February. Europe’s largest volcano is evidence that Catania is in one of Italy’s most seismically unpredictable areas. In 1693 an earthquake virtually destroyed the city, killing two-thirds of its inhabitants.

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