The black-cod theory of European integration

FROM MONTE CARLODJ to Marbella to Milan, no glamorous destination is complete without a Nobu. The chain of gourmand-luring Japanese-Peruvian restaurants has become a staple in practically every tourist hotspot. In each location, a well-off clientele stuff themselves with chunks of black cod soaked in miso and yellowfin-tuna tartare while a in expensive-looking spectacles plays unobtrusive house music.Last summer Warsaw became the latest and, at first appearances, least likely addition to the list. Varsovians took to it well. With dishes from 25 zloty (€5.50 or $6.50) for edamame beans to 170 zloty for the signature black-cod dish, the place was crammed most nights, lockdowns permitting. Nobu’s stash of was designed to last for 18 months; it was downed in three. The average spend on opening was higher than in the branch in Monte Carlo.